Traveling in Russia is a really interesting experience. While you can travel to and from most cities by plane now, train is the way most Russian usually travel. It’s cheaper, and it is something that is just engrained in the culture, as it was in America a century ago.
It is highly recommended to travel by train in Russia. It is an experience unlike anything you likely have done before. It really gives you a good feel for the Russian countryside and its people and traditions.
Russia is an enormous country. Just western Russia is as big as the United States. So, you easily can have a train ride of one to three days, depending on where you are going. The regular Moscow-St.Petersburg train is about 8 hours in length.
Before you take your first Russian train trip, please follow these tips:
1. Ticket and Packing Essentials
Russian train ticket. If you can’t read Russian, you need a translator!
There are several classes of passenger train in Russia. Universally, the lower numbered trains are the best quality. For example, if you are going from Moscow to Perm, there is a daily train called the Kama that is number 20. Trains in the single or double digits are comfortable trains with a standard 4-person kupe (compartment – see picture below). There also are a few luxury 2-person kupes on these trains, but they can be hard to get a hold of.
If you buy a ticket on train 359 or train 456…..you’ll get to your destination but it won’t be as comfortable! Higher numbered trains usually are exclusively platzcart trains. This is train with completely open cars with lots of bunks. This is often the way that Russians with less money travel. It’s less comfortable, more noisy, the bathrooms are messy, and, these trains tend to stop at every single stop on the line. So it can take you several hours longer to reach your destination.
Remember, when you go to the train station to buy your ticket, make sure you or your Russian-speaking companion by a ticket on the lowest numbered train.
You also want to make sure that you do not over pack on your train trip. Russia means walking, and lots of public transportation. The less you carry, the better. Think 2 small bags, tops, or 1 small bag and a backpack. There is storage in each kupe, under the bottom bunks and a slot next to the top bunks. But it is not a lot of space, so pack light.
IMPORTANT TIP: All times on train tickets are Moscow time.
Standard 4-person Russian train compartment
2. Bathroom Essentials
There is a very small bathroom at the rear of each passenger car. It should work just fine, but you might want to bring along hand wipes and your own toilet paper, as the supplies on hand may run low or be of poor quality.
VERY IMPORTANT: When you use the restroom you may notice that when you flush, you see the ground. This is because on many trains, they still drop the waste straight onto the train tracks. Yep.
This is why they usually LOCK the bathrooms about 20 miles outside of major cities. So, if you need to use the facilities, make very sure you do so well before you get near the next major stop, or you could be out of luck.
Tip for the guys: This is one time in life that it is beneficial to be a man! In an emergency and the bathroom is locked, go between the rail cars. There is a gap of several inches between the cars where you can see the ground rushing past below you. Relieve yourself FAST, glancing left and right through the windows of the car doors to make sure an attendant is not coming!
The train stop schedule should be on the wall of each train car. So you should know when the next stop is (everything is in Moscow time, so add/subtract the appropriate number of hours depending on your time zone). If you cannot read Russian, hopefully you have an English-speaking companion who can assist you.
3. Eating Essentials
You may be on the train for a day or much longer, so you want to bring along plenty of food. While there is a restaurant car on each train, it is expensive and the food is marginal. One of the great Russian traditions on the train is to bring a lot of good food. Most Russians will bring fresh dark bread, smoked salmon, cucumbers from the dacha, boiled eggs, cookies, cheese and more. When you stop at major cities, there are plenty of kiosks where you can buy more food, drinks and so on.
4. Compartment Essentials
More than likely, you will be in your kupe with three Russians. They may not speak any English. They will almost always be very friendly and curious about you, especially if you are far from Moscow and St. Petersburg. Most of them will want to share their food with you. It is a common courtesy when you are in a train compartment with strangers. You should feel comfortable to do so. It is a good idea, though, to return the favor and share your food with them as well. These meals will likely be one of your most enjoyable times in Russia, even if you cannot say much to each other. It is not an experience you get in America or in most Western countries.
After the meal, the train attendant will bring you tea. This is a universal on every Russian train. It is included in the price, and the tea should be in cups that look just like this:
Tea will be brought to you in cups like this
5. Sleeping Essentials
One nice thing about these long Russian train trips is there is no TV, so your main activities are reading, eating and sleeping. You can really catch up on your sleep on these trips! At night, keep in mind that there is an inside lock on your kupe. Crime can be a problem on any train anywhere, so make sure your compartment is locked at night. It is a good idea to keep all valuables (money, jewelry) in a money belt around your waist or neck.
Conclusion
Riding on a Russian train is a very pleasant and relaxing experience. Going to sleep at night with the tracks rumbling beneath you is delightful. It also is wonderful to look out the window and see Russian homes, the countryside, and the black night sky and stars when you are far from large cities. We hope your Russian train trip is as enjoyable as ours have been!
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